is a very popular colour and fashion
item which is worn by any age due to its versatility and slimming effects for
women of all shapes and sizes. The choice of colour one wears may say many
things about them. Subconsciously colours affect people in different ways by
sending either positive or negative messages to others. It can also depict the
mood you are in as well as how others perceive you. Brands have also
communicated their different values through advertisement and marketing to suit
everyone’s needs through promoting a variety of clothes to match a variety of
needs. Mark Tungate states in his book Fashion Brands that “you do not buy clothes,
you buy an identity” (Tungate 2005, 1). This suggests that who we are is
ingrained in our choice of style and that we communicate with the world
throughout the clothes we wear. As it’s the first thing someone else sees, it
is instinctual to make an unconscious judgement, so, whether we like it or not,
we are judged by what we wear.

 

Jersey fabric is a type of knit textile used mainly for clothing. It was
originally made

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from wool, however, G1 G2 it’s now made of different materials such as cotton and synthetic G3 G4 G5 G6 fibres. Jersey is a warm and stretchy fabric used for t-shirts, draped
garments and winter bedding. Originating from the Channel Island named Jersey,
the fabric is a hugely popular choice for making garments as it’s soft and
comfortable to wear. During
Coco Chanel’s time, Jersey was an industrial fabric usually used for men’s
underwear. After opening her first shop in Paris, she pioneered the undesirable
fabrG7 ic using it in her womenswear
collections, such as sports-wear. This outraged the fashion industry at the
time, as it defied the conventions of it being solely used for men’s underwear,
however, without this change, the clothes we wear today would seldom be as
comfortable as we would like without the jersey thread. Even now, Karl
Lagerfeld identified that much of her rise to fame was “because she made dresses
out of jersey”. (Vogue Australia 2010). The functional and comfortable
material was not an ordinary fabric for women to wear. Instead, women still
preferred the glitzyG8 , glamorous gowns which quenched their waists
with the fitted corset. Chanel saw potential in utilising jersey into
different clothing categories. Her new use of jersey revolutionised not only the
purposes of the fabric but also the way women dressed. G9 G10 G11 Due to its low cost, she thought of the fabric to be profitable, as well
as looking comfortable and elegant. For this reason, she used the fabric to
make women’s dresses, allowing them to drape nicely, while also keeping production costs low.G12 
It was this form of ingenuity that enabled Chanel to be a success while keeping
her clothing and designs popular with the public. G13 G14 G15 G16 G17 G18 G19 G20 

CHAPTER 2: LAGERFELDS INFLUENCE

 

Following Chanel’s death in 1971, her
assistants carried on designing her ready-to

-wearG21  couture lines, until Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanel
in 1983. Lagerfeld is a famous luxury clothing designer who has helped bring new life to
Chanel exhibiting different styles, shapes and eccentric colours to the classy,
modern lookG22 , allowing Chanel to continue to be successful
and remaining to be one of the most lucrative luxury brands in the world. He has undertaken the responsibility of transforming
Chanel into a remarkable and significant brand by introduG23 G24 cing glamour and the sex appeal while
simultaneously managing Fendi and his own fashion house. Like Chanel, Lagerfeld
was inspired by early fashion, incorporating Chanel’s signature details such as
the tweed fabrics, gold chains, quilt-stitched leather and jewellery pearls.
Instead of copying her ideas, he innovates the designs by composing through the
similar themes and theories Chanel had. G25 Season after season, Lagerfeld has generated
new excitement and demand for Chanel’s clothing and has presented his work
through catwalks and exhibitions.G26 G27 G28 G29 

 

First launched in London 2015, ‘Mademoiselle Privé’ is an exhibition capturing a visual journey through
the world of Chanel, where viewers grasp a rare glimpse into the origins of
Chanel and her collections. It also captures the work of Karl Lagerfeld,
Chanel’s creative director, who has re-established haute couture and produced countless
ready-to-wear collections. The iconic work was first installed on all three
floors of the Saatchi Gallery, revealing the houses essential elements:
audacity, freedom and innovation. G30  (Saatchi Gallery 2015). The exhibition’s re-opening in Seoul presented a futuristic black and
white representation of Gabrielle’s first shop in Paris on the first floor
which included a room dedicated for her N°5 fragrance, allowing viewers to test all the
individual ingredients. The second floor contained re-editions of Gabrielle
Chanel’s collections and Karl Lagerfeld’s haute couture pieces. Chul Jun Sung,
an editor from Timeout Magazine state that the exhibition is “a little
less grand than what is expected of the fashion powerhouse” – he felt that the
show was not as inspiring and interacting as the fashion shows and catwalks we
see today (Sung 2017).
Following the London and Seoul chapters, it has been revealed that Chanel is set to open its doors to the
Mademoiselle Privé Exhibition for the third time in Hong Kong from January to February
2018. Chanel
has proven to inspire fashion throughout time and cultures, presenting her
elegance and innovation to a global audience.G31 G32 

 

Karl Lagerfeld has been known to deliver the most striking and
transformative

experiences when creating the seasonal Chanel
catwalk shows. The extravagant architecture and magical features of the fashion
shows have again increased our expectations as Lagerfeld creates new wonderland
worlds which are G33 charismatic and cinematic. For its most
recent show, Lagerfeld created a space station catwalk setting featuring a
Chanel-branded rocket, unquestionably impressing every guest. Set in the Grand
Palais, the seasonal setting exhibited the Chanel ready-to-wear spring/summer
2018 collection amongst the ceiling-high majestic waterfalls. The paraded
collection was inspired by water where Lagerfeld delivers the water theme through the famous
Chanel suit. The tweed was intervened with metallic abstract to gleam and
reflect as the fabric moves. Other garments were also sewed alongside fabric
water prints to represent the seaweed on set, whilst sheer fabrics were used to
compliment and denote the ripples of the water. As for accessories, Lagerfeld
paired each outfit with either raindrop earringsG34  or transparent boots, hats, gloves and bags. To begin the
show Lagerfeld paraded Chanel’s casual collection which included colourful
overly fringed tops, blazers (both fitted and oversized), miniskirts and shorts
all assembled with the same fabric. He paired his outfits with the quilted
cross-body bags, the clear plastic totes and the crystal sequined clutches. To
end his show, Lagerfeld had a series of white shimmering evening dresses. The
effort and imagery that is channelled into the shows ceaselessly parallels the
craftsmanship that has gone into the production of Chanel’s designs. The
advertisement and presentation invited people from a plethora of different
fields. Whether they are interested in fashion, art or architecture, they
create the audience which, each year, is inspired by the clothing. The ability
for Lagerfeld to continue Chanel’s work through art is an incredible factor in
keeping the brand as renowned as it is.G35 

 

Having established that Lagerfeld exposes his collection through the
famous Chanel

catwalks, he has also
manipulated her ideas, coming up with fresh and modern ways to increase the
brand’s reputation. LookiG36 ng back at Chanel’s collections before the
80’s, there were only the ordinarily posh tweed suits with bows and very simple
dresses. Lagerfeld brought a new light to the brand incorporating different
colours, contemporary fabrics, gold chains, quilt-stitched leather and the CC
logo to go on to the garments. He also manipulated the Chanel tweed suit by pairing the
traditional blazer with the mini denim skirt, worn byG37  Linda Evangelista in 1991 (Style 2014).

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