is a very popular colour and fashionitem which is worn by any age due to its versatility and slimming effects forwomen of all shapes and sizes. The choice of colour one wears may say manythings about them.
Subconsciously colours affect people in different ways bysending either positive or negative messages to others. It can also depict themood you are in as well as how others perceive you. Brands have alsocommunicated their different values through advertisement and marketing to suiteveryone’s needs through promoting a variety of clothes to match a variety ofneeds. Mark Tungate states in his book Fashion Brands that “you do not buy clothes,you buy an identity” (Tungate 2005, 1).
This suggests that who we are isingrained in our choice of style and that we communicate with the worldthroughout the clothes we wear. As it’s the first thing someone else sees, itis instinctual to make an unconscious judgement, so, whether we like it or not,we are judged by what we wear. Jersey fabric is a type of knit textile used mainly for clothing.
It wasoriginally made from wool, however, G1 G2 it’s now made of different materials such as cotton and synthetic G3 G4 G5 G6 fibres. Jersey is a warm and stretchy fabric used for t-shirts, drapedgarments and winter bedding. Originating from the Channel Island named Jersey,the fabric is a hugely popular choice for making garments as it’s soft andcomfortable to wear. DuringCoco Chanel’s time, Jersey was an industrial fabric usually used for men’sunderwear.
After opening her first shop in Paris, she pioneered the undesirablefabrG7 ic using it in her womenswearcollections, such as sports-wear. This outraged the fashion industry at thetime, as it defied the conventions of it being solely used for men’s underwear,however, without this change, the clothes we wear today would seldom be ascomfortable as we would like without the jersey thread. Even now, KarlLagerfeld identified that much of her rise to fame was “because she made dressesout of jersey”. (Vogue Australia 2010).
The functional and comfortablematerial was not an ordinary fabric for women to wear. Instead, women stillpreferred the glitzyG8 , glamorous gowns which quenched their waistswith the fitted corset. Chanel saw potential in utilising jersey intodifferent clothing categories. Her new use of jersey revolutionised not only thepurposes of the fabric but also the way women dressed. G9 G10 G11 Due to its low cost, she thought of the fabric to be profitable, as wellas looking comfortable and elegant.
For this reason, she used the fabric tomake women’s dresses, allowing them to drape nicely, while also keeping production costs low.G12 It was this form of ingenuity that enabled Chanel to be a success while keepingher clothing and designs popular with the public. G13 G14 G15 G16 G17 G18 G19 G20 CHAPTER 2: LAGERFELDS INFLUENCE Following Chanel’s death in 1971, herassistants carried on designing her ready-to-wearG21 couture lines, until Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanelin 1983. Lagerfeld is a famous luxury clothing designer who has helped bring new life toChanel exhibiting different styles, shapes and eccentric colours to the classy,modern lookG22 , allowing Chanel to continue to be successfuland remaining to be one of the most lucrative luxury brands in the world. He has undertaken the responsibility of transformingChanel into a remarkable and significant brand by introduG23 G24 cing glamour and the sex appeal whilesimultaneously managing Fendi and his own fashion house. Like Chanel, Lagerfeldwas inspired by early fashion, incorporating Chanel’s signature details such asthe tweed fabrics, gold chains, quilt-stitched leather and jewellery pearls.Instead of copying her ideas, he innovates the designs by composing through thesimilar themes and theories Chanel had. G25 Season after season, Lagerfeld has generatednew excitement and demand for Chanel’s clothing and has presented his workthrough catwalks and exhibitions.
G26 G27 G28 G29 First launched in London 2015, ‘Mademoiselle Privé’ is an exhibition capturing a visual journey throughthe world of Chanel, where viewers grasp a rare glimpse into the origins ofChanel and her collections. It also captures the work of Karl Lagerfeld,Chanel’s creative director, who has re-established haute couture and produced countlessready-to-wear collections. The iconic work was first installed on all threefloors of the Saatchi Gallery, revealing the houses essential elements:audacity, freedom and innovation. G30 (Saatchi Gallery 2015). The exhibition’s re-opening in Seoul presented a futuristic black andwhite representation of Gabrielle’s first shop in Paris on the first floorwhich included a room dedicated for her N°5 fragrance, allowing viewers to test all theindividual ingredients. The second floor contained re-editions of GabrielleChanel’s collections and Karl Lagerfeld’s haute couture pieces. Chul Jun Sung,an editor from Timeout Magazine state that the exhibition is “a littleless grand than what is expected of the fashion powerhouse” – he felt that theshow was not as inspiring and interacting as the fashion shows and catwalks wesee today (Sung 2017).
Following the London and Seoul chapters, it has been revealed that Chanel is set to open its doors to theMademoiselle Privé Exhibition for the third time in Hong Kong from January to February2018. Chanelhas proven to inspire fashion throughout time and cultures, presenting herelegance and innovation to a global audience.G31 G32 Karl Lagerfeld has been known to deliver the most striking andtransformative experiences when creating the seasonal Chanelcatwalk shows. The extravagant architecture and magical features of the fashionshows have again increased our expectations as Lagerfeld creates new wonderlandworlds which are G33 charismatic and cinematic. For its mostrecent show, Lagerfeld created a space station catwalk setting featuring aChanel-branded rocket, unquestionably impressing every guest. Set in the GrandPalais, the seasonal setting exhibited the Chanel ready-to-wear spring/summer2018 collection amongst the ceiling-high majestic waterfalls. The paradedcollection was inspired by water where Lagerfeld delivers the water theme through the famousChanel suit. The tweed was intervened with metallic abstract to gleam andreflect as the fabric moves.
Other garments were also sewed alongside fabricwater prints to represent the seaweed on set, whilst sheer fabrics were used tocompliment and denote the ripples of the water. As for accessories, Lagerfeldpaired each outfit with either raindrop earringsG34 or transparent boots, hats, gloves and bags. To begin theshow Lagerfeld paraded Chanel’s casual collection which included colourfuloverly fringed tops, blazers (both fitted and oversized), miniskirts and shortsall assembled with the same fabric.
He paired his outfits with the quiltedcross-body bags, the clear plastic totes and the crystal sequined clutches. Toend his show, Lagerfeld had a series of white shimmering evening dresses. Theeffort and imagery that is channelled into the shows ceaselessly parallels thecraftsmanship that has gone into the production of Chanel’s designs. Theadvertisement and presentation invited people from a plethora of differentfields.
Whether they are interested in fashion, art or architecture, theycreate the audience which, each year, is inspired by the clothing. The abilityfor Lagerfeld to continue Chanel’s work through art is an incredible factor inkeeping the brand as renowned as it is.G35 Having established that Lagerfeld exposes his collection through thefamous Chanel catwalks, he has alsomanipulated her ideas, coming up with fresh and modern ways to increase thebrand’s reputation. LookiG36 ng back at Chanel’s collections before the80’s, there were only the ordinarily posh tweed suits with bows and very simpledresses.
Lagerfeld brought a new light to the brand incorporating differentcolours, contemporary fabrics, gold chains, quilt-stitched leather and the CClogo to go on to the garments. He also manipulated the Chanel tweed suit by pairing thetraditional blazer with the mini denim skirt, worn byG37 Linda Evangelista in 1991 (Style 2014).Inserted: ,Inserted: ,Inserted: alInserted: teInserted: mInserted: ‘Inserted: ,Inserted: ,Inserted: rpoInserted: pInserted: not only Inserted: eInserted: eDeleted:fDeleted:bDeleted:cDeleted:uDeleted:not only Deleted:stDeleted:stInserted: -Inserted: classy, Inserted: ntInserted: significInserted: rDeleted:classy Deleted:,Deleted:mDeleted:jorInserted: threeDeleted:3Deleted:throughout Inserted: veInserted: ,Deleted:sInserted: ‘Inserted: mini